I will try explain two things based on material which excite my thoughts: simple house building material, and simple solar collector design.

It will need testing, but principle will be here explain.

People on Earth growing up and I try predict it with equation: y = 1.6 + (x/47.95 - 39.6)^2 [billions]. It is based on number from year x = 1900 to 2000. It is only approximation of course.

In 2050 will be about 11 billion of people. It will increase problems too. House building and energy problem is important stuff.

This is basic material for canoe buildings (university canoe competitions), and it will be basic material on this page.

I will not going to details, but only explain principles. It is new ideas for me too.

In my country I found only "Sika latex" and did not testing yet, and from internet found using of "Acryl 60".

But ideas can be explain before, and it is based on others success. Strength with adding acrylic can be doubled, and cement can become elastic.

I will explain here third component which I think is important:

It is volcano material (glass and other part with water inside, and when heat on about 800 C it become about 10 times bigger). It is hard and temperature resistant.

It is excellent insulator. This material in combination of first two will be my basic choice.

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First step is building mould from some material (woods or other). It must have all collector ribs (where glass will be, where water will go, how box insulation will be).

Second step is put foil inside (for easy get out base of this collector).

Mix that three material in latex/cement/water : perlite = 1 : 20. It will be good insulator, and base of collector. Latex/water/cement part need investigation and maybe 1:1:2 (from "Sika latex" proposal, where sand is replace with cement, will be good start). Adding perlite will maybe change this mixture.

And that is starting point for building my new solar collector design. Perlite has about 10 times less mass (100 litres has around 10 kg).

After enough drying, get it out from mould.

It will need mesh + latex/cement/water reinforces around that insulator base. Mesh can be PVC, metalic... and one or two layers.

First I think about pipes (cooper), but simple ideas is come to my mind after that solution. If this material is good for canoe, it will be good for collector pipes too. We have relief here (from moulding box), and can put cement mixture on it. Metalic mesh will improve this part of work. For last part we need black cement mixture (oxide black colour ash). Input, and output is some tubes for hot water connection. We put second metalic mesh on that, and finish work with black cement mixture.

We build cheap collector without pipes. It has all stuff: box, insulation, water path, black surface.

On box for mould purpose, can be design for overlaping more collector for replaceing roof tile with this collector design.

Last step is putting glass (or two) and glue with good temperature silicon.

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This type of solar energy (heated water) needs insulators material, for house building.

Ideal solution will be material which I was explain for collector, but my calculation become with price like YTONG material (maybe in reach country is different, because different perlite source price. Here is not so cheap.

But I will explain possibility for cheaper buildings system. I was read about straw house (In my country is prohibited, and I now PROTEST!!!)

Water tank (under the house) for hot water, need insulation too (see "My Home Solar System") for basic principle.

That material which I explain before could be use for that.

For cutting prices purpose, maybe mix of latex/cement/perlite (20%) + straw (80%) will be good approach. I did not try this yet, but I have this in my mind.

First and last step is always mesh + latex/cement mixture, but for filler, this combination will be good. It need testing...

I am fascinating with bamboo too. It is grass, and could be great material for build. It is strong like steel. In five years of growing, on space like house place, it can give material for one house, next year another... It is relatively cheap, and with combination with that latex/cement material, will become very strong and long lasting. I was look on curtain from bamboo and it could be mesh replacement, with latex/cement layer will be interesting too. Possibility are here, and for poor country will be important. Main structure of house could be from bamboo, and walls from straw/latex-cement-perlite mixture.

My "dream house" will be something like in next picture.

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It will have solar collectors on roof, two water tank under the house (one with hot water, and the other with cold). Water will be collecting from rain. It need filters too. On top of roof will be Tesla's style wind generator. Floor heating and cooling system (from that two tank). It need electric solar cells and battery system, for pumping and other stuff.

I will never build that kind of house, because I have standard one.

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Square form for pipes will be better and simplest form design. Wooden rood must be greatest then pipes places when mesh and cement mix fill will be add. Input and output connectors can be some standart circular form with threads. Adding PVC mesh inside perlite filler (with great holes) is solution for stronger design ( or PVC reinforced strings for mixed form).

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One idea come to my mind, after thinking about pumping, antifreeze, expansion jar...

Could be possible use in this simple collectors air movement? One compressor just pump air through system, and when going out, just go through water tank. All that complicate part of system can replace one good compressor. It need testing, but I have good feeling.

Maybe that latex/cement/perlite collector, air compressor, PVC glass (build with mesh style inside; ETFE: Ethyl Teta Fluoro Ethylene is new perfect plastic, but it is not cheap, maybe foil system?) will be great solution. Durability and simplicity. Hot air bubbles in water, like energy carrier... No connection problem, no leak problem, no water pressure problem. Only possible problem that I can see now is needing for tank air outlet. And possible leak some water with air through it. Air is not that good like water like heat carrier, but it is summer collector style of system. Maybe direct input in house (in sunny day) in winter will be possible. It need experiments...

And last thought: hot air have force to going up, and could be possible to make self pumping system? Wind in nature can make strong effect of sucking and movement. Is possible make this system without compressor? Input of air system must be on lowest part of collector system (with or without compressor).

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Material of dream is ETFE ( Ethyl Teta Fluoro Ethylene ). But it is not cheap. I will try explain glass replacement with foil. We need 1 m wide foil of ETFE, and enough length ( 4 m for example ). I try to explain glass replacement for 1 m x 2 m collector. It need square pipes of some transparent plastic which is hard enough. And some good glue ( epoxy? ). Two clamping system (or more).

1. Cut square pipe ( 1 cm x 1 cm ) on 0.98 m (1 m - 2 cm) length (5 parts).

2. Clamp foil on both ends and drag foil with clumping system. Glue square pipe on foil ( bottom side of square pipe). Do it every 0.5 meters. Mark foil before work. It need drying before release clumping foil.

3. After 2 m put glue on end, and go back with foil for upper part. Mark every 0.5 m, drug and clamp, and glue on upper square side of every pipe. Always release (drop) foil after glue is dry. Throw over and glue starting point (first end).

4. Cut square pipe ( 1 cm x 1 cm ) on around (0.5 m - d + x) length (8 parts). It must be little longest than space between before glued pipes ( d=1 cm, and x= few mm, and it will be dragging system for opposite direction ). Place and glue that pipes, between foil sandwich ( 1 cm inside ).Throw over ends, and glue.

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That is idea for glass collector replacement. ETFE has greatest properties. I think it will be good enough.

Adding some cheap solar electric module for replacement of black part.( needs for thin and black electric module, AVA Solar Inc. give price promise? ). Cutting price with roof tile replacement, and thin electric panel (ETFE is protection for thin electric panel on top). Price? I don't know. It is just idea for roof tile/heat/electric collector.

1. perlite case with air channels (for collecting heat with air pumping system),

2. thin electric module glued inside collector,

3. ETFE part on top (protection for electric module).

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This system with latex/cement/perlite for building collector, can be use for doors and windows.

1. latex/cement/perlite

2. latex/cement/mesh

3. brushing, painting, adding other elements

I try Sika Latex (milk) 1 part, with 2 part cement mixture, and little water (0.5 part). It become strong material. Mesh is important when thickness is low. Two mesh (or three, one in middle) and 1 mm latex/cement mix with stirodur between can build light door. I try with PVC mesh, and can't break. My suggestion is minimum 2 mesh with some distance. I use Sika latex without adding much water ( just a little if it need it).

Another option is Pattex Super 3 wood waterproof glue (I don't know what is in it, but work good). It become interesting when cement is low, and become elastic and strong. It is less milky, and can do that, with adding water. In mix around 1:1:1 it is more elastic, but in 0.5:2:1 is strong (cheap and good for work).

Poliurethane latex is maybe good too, but it is not water mix, and I don't like smell. I will stay on first two options.

Sun heat on all mixture is enemy, and it need water cooling after little time (one hour), and shadow (water must do cemical reaction, and not vapor)

Every day I go to work (15 km) and back (15 km). If I have in car some insulated box in baggage-hold, and on bottom of box copper pipes heater, with connection on antifreeze circular colling system, and if put inside few plastics cans, when I come back I will have lot of hot water). Just change cans with another set (cold), and use hot cans. I don't need this, but I calculate around 1 MWh of energy for year (for 50-100 liters). Idea is 'funny' but maybe someone can help. Remove cans can be by hand (and cans can heat like radiator if move to house), but it can be modify with automatic replace water in greater storage tank. 70 % of energy in car, are heat losses. All bagage-hold can be insulated box, with some valve for on/off heating. Hot tea and lunch, when come back from work? It could improve car efficiency...

Electric panels on roof of car with four plastic (elastic) reflector which going out in reverse pyramid formation (for cutting price on panels, because they never work 100 % on lower sun conditions). Reflectors (plastic) must be below roof panels. It can be like some curtain system (automatic motor). It will be protecting shadow for car too. I hate when in summer come to car with sauna like inside place. If car roof is 2 square meters, it could be 10 m2 of suns energy. Electric shadowing car system. It could give around 2 kW ( 10% cells efficiency), and around 10 kWh of energy (for 5 hours on parking). Not so much, but shadow for car will be great. Just another 'funny' stuff. It has wind problem, but this shadower can have rotating track (like shutter) with little permanent magnet generators, and add more energy. Funny, but who knows... If efficiency of electric cell will be more than 50 %, it will become interesting.

Maybe this thoughts will help someone...

Good luck!

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I will put some ideas about building material for design simple human-look robots. It must be cheap and simple. It is based on some mix of stiropor (white light material with little balls structure) and 'silicon rubber' ( from tube, and for home repair ). It will be basic robotic structure.

First step is grind stiropor to little balls from compact plate design (or found grind form of stiropor). Second step is mixing it with that 'silicon'. After few days, smell from vinegar acid will disappear. It could be replacement for muscle (flesh part). This material could be put around bamboo structure, which could replace bones (of course, it could be some plastic tubes too). Last part is some replacement for skin. It could be some liquid rubber form last layer. If this stiropor/silicon structure is filled with some permanent magnets, and has coils wires inside, when current going through, this material will do some contractions. It need development on that direction, because I think that standard motor design is too noisy, and it is not nature. With some magnets (like beads), fixing with fishing nylon between them, and surrounding with coil wire, that muscle replacement could be done (this is yet theoretical, but I will try to test it).

This robot need energy, and some light battery (like 'A123' Li-ion) will be much expensive part. Maybe using 'bones' inside space (hard PVC pipes with inside battery) will be good approach. Charging battery system could be wireless (I explain it in energy part of this web pages, where high frequency plates collect energy). For example, inside robot could be put two metallic mesh in back part, and robot come to transmitting mesh (sleeping bad, or wall), and charging time will be replacement for sleeping time.

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Silicone smell comes from vinegar acid. It need water from humidity for drying and waiting time. In my first attempt 2-3 days was needed for disappear that vinegar acid smell.

Adding baking soda will transform vinegar acid and soda to H2O and CO2, and some salt. My 10% adding is just my filling. I need to know how much vinegar acid is in silicone. It depend about cement to. Cement is add just for strength and remover for that water.

After mixing silicone paste with baking soda, I am add little part of cement, and after few minutes create ball in my hand. It became good elastic ball, and my daughter is confiscate it (for playing).

My next step will be mixing with white stiropor like before. With white baking soda I choose white cement because I want to stay in white color.

It has nice characteristic, and in that lightweight mixture, it will be cheap rubber material for building (robotic humanoid structure, elastic car design, boat design...).

I am very satisfy with this material.

After days of experiments with that silicone I think that 5-10% of baking soda is enough for that catalytic reaction. Maybe is better first mixing cement with silicone, and after that add baking soda for starting polymeryzation process. Cement can be adding more than 10%, but then elastic properties are worse (some part will start reaction with water, and other are just dust in space between Si-O polymers). Because of limited acid part in silicone, more baking soda is bad choice.

Silicone is interesting material. It is UV and temperature resistant (>200 C) and has long life duration (more than 40 years) with good water resistance.

Some filler material (perlite for elastic and strong, 'stiropore' for elastic...) must be in good grinding form (because of needs of low air spaces between). Adding some strings (from stone, glass... fiber style isolation, will add more strength).

Silicon (Si) is first step to artificial inteligence (semiconductors), and silicone (Si-O-Si polymers) are second step (elastic no-organic building materials).

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This is mixture of elastic material with good properties. It is elastic and has good strength. With strong fiber mesh, car structure can be build, or canoe. I would like to live in house with that structure, when strong earthquake is around. With adding perlite weight will be around 0.5 kg per liter of material. Price of that material will be around half of silicone price, because of low price of that additive. I will try some mixture with lower part of silicone, but I am satisfied with this mix. I did not try with perlite micro balloons, but ball created with sand has nice properties. I use mix of shampoo/water in hand and create experimental ball for around 10 minutes. Around 30 minutes, and polymerization will finish (except cement part, which is water remover inside that mixture).

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This is just an idea. I don't like motors in robots. It need experiments, and energy must be recycled back to battery (coil induction with diodes can do that), when elastic muscle will going back to start position. This system will create some heat (humans are worm).

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This design is based on fact that little movement of electro-magnet create high movement (depend of triangle measures and angles). Elastic silicone ball will add elasticity (automatic back movement). This can be shielded with silicone/stiropore elastic material. Important is to understand that little X create greatest Y movement (example: 1 mm can create 10 mm).

This system could be modified with motors and its rotating screw, or some hydraulic movement.

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If you seek for life prolongation and health protection, I will tell you this 'secret'.

Clean ginger from its crust and scrubbing ginger with some scrubber.

Mix 1 little spoon of ginger and 2 little spoon of honey.

I use 2-3 little spoons per day of that mix for immunity and protection.

If you have cough problem, this is perfect solution for stopping it.

I had two weeks of cough problem, and I try all known medical solution, but problem did not stop.

When I try with ginger and honey, it was stopping for one day of use.

It is better solution against travel sickness than pills, and it win against different pills for the same purpose in one medical experiment.

Ginger is cancer protection, and it is cancer stopper. In experiment with mouse, time to cancer coming was longer then without ginger in their food.

It stops pregnancy-related and chemotherapy-related nausea and vomiting.

Ginger has affect on blood pressure and clotting, and heart rhythms (positive in normal use). Don't use it in large quantities, and together with other pills for that purposes.

It reduces pain too.

It is good to know that this root exist.

It has lemon-like smell.

Don't reject this root because of pungent taste.

It is great gift from nature and I am glad to have this knowledge.

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I have in my backyard few pine tree. Ancient glue system (Roman) and Indian canoe are very interesting. I am try lot of different approach, and finally found my own.

Lot of this glue system needs temperature heating, and are not temperature resistant.

I will explain main part of my glue. It is pine pitch. Ingredients are just approximation, and it will give us some picture:

Pine pitch:

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Differences in pine pitch known as resin and rosin is in turpentine. Turpentine is solvent for resin. Rosin is without that natural solvent, and is not in emulsion form. Around 25 % of turpentine is natural form of pine pitch. Water inside pine pitch is very low (around 2 %, if I have right information), but is important in my system.

Standard pine pitch glue system has pine pitch, ash or charcoal, fat and some cellulose.

I am replace ash or charcoal part with Portland cement. Most of it work like filler, but that water give some strength.

Third part of my glue is linseed oil. It has interesting oxidize characteristic, and this oil make chains when oxygen from air is here. Product of this chemical reaction is H2O and CO2. It add another part of water in this concrete with time of drying.

Recipe is here:

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Of course, adding some fibers will improve strength, and adding perlite material will improve in decrease weight of concrete.

Don't forget bamboo (high growing grass) or straw in combination of this material.

This is excellent strong waterproof material, with some elasticity. It is not strong like modern epoxyde system, but in lot of application it can replace it. With perlite and fibre system and this concrete, possibility are great. It could be batter approach than acrylic/cement system.

I clean my hand with alcohol, but standard paint cleaner are possible too. Use some hand pretecting cream after that.

Some triangle cutting bark on pine tree with plastic jar, or plastic bag (transparence) attached on pine tree cutted branch, will be good starting point for pine pitch collecting.

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This is not professional piano lessons. This is my way for simple playing with chords.

I transpose my keyboard for one octave (on my Korg: "Upper Octave" -1), because I want on right hand sound from middle of keyboard.

On left hand I want some bass sound. Right hand will have 3 keys (fingers), and on left only one.

In every music playing with chords has deal with circle of harmony. I found another way to understand this with keyboard visualization.

Every song has in the beginning flats or sharps symbols. I convert it to numbers. ### is number 3, or bb is -2 and so on. # are positive and b are negative from -6 to 6.

If song has not sharp (#) or flats (b) it is in C signature. We can see on next picture that C,D,E has 0,2,4, and G,A,B has 1,3,5 numbers. F key is -1 number.

If key of song is in C, we will has -1,0,1 C major (dur) keys. Because 0 is C, and number less than 0 is -1, and 1 is on other side. -1,0,1 means F,C,G major. Song in C will use this chords. But song will have minor chords, too. We must just find 3th key left from that major, and it will for "F,C,G" (major or mol) be "d,a,e" (minor or dur).

I am from Europe where in music H means B, and American black key Bb (or A#) means B. I don't like this "not logical" or "not alphabetic" order. This is paradox, and I use American style.

Upper part (for flat or b) has inverse direction of numbers and negative number. Most of songs deal with sharp (#) part (for guitar), and that part is more interesting.

Example: song has ### and I see in my mind that 1,3,5 arrow (on right part of picture). 3 will be A major. We deal with ...2,3,4... numbers, and it will be D,A,E and when look on left for 3 keys, will have b,f#,c#.

I write on song paper something like this:

2 D b

3 A f#

4 E c#

Some of this chords will be in this A major song. Sometimes minor will has major in song (f# will be F#), but most of chords will be in that six chords. Some song will have neighbor number (in this example: 5 or 1), but this 6 chords will be the most common ( probable less than six chords ).

This is picture for that numeric to chord algorithm:

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Another picture is set of all chords. I use 1., 2. and 4. fingers on right hand. Minor chord is represent with arrow movement.

Simple chord has 1. +4 +3 keys for major, and 1. +3 +4 for minor (1. , 2. and 3. key), but I use some inversion here. Because of that, song has better sound. Keyboard has LEFT (bass) MIDDLE (nothing) and RIGHT (chords) part.

I press chords on right hand in rhythm of rhythmic part of each words. Left hand is just one press when chord is written on song, and it is pressed all the time, and when another chord is come, I press that new chord.

Sometimes, when song has lot of space between two chords, I press chord and than 2. finger (from that chord), than 3., and than chord again before chord changing. I mark in song that place where will after chord will be that 2. and. 3. fingering part. Sometimes song has very long part between two chord. It will have 1, 2 or more "fingering". Song will be more natural. I can play around 50 song for 4 months of learning that technic. I try with more than one fingers on bass part (I try chords), but with only one is best option (maybe energy on 1 bass is in balance with 3 middle tone with high frequency). Playing music with notes is years practice. This "chords" playing is month practice style. It is good enough for me... My friend (good piano player) can do fingering of chords on left part in some rithm, but is too hard for me. I like my ease way.

When in song is A7 chord (or some other exotic one), I just play A. Mistake is just 1/4 (because 7 has one more key). I plays just with major and minor chords, and my guitarist friend (song writer) say: It sound excellent. My another friend play piano (with reading notes), and he think that it is good enough. It is not melody, but it is harmony, he say. If you have some singer, you can't play melody for him. But he (or she) must be good singer.

For easier writing I use just an ' sign (before or after chord). If it is right of the chord it mean (for me): # (sharp), if is left from chord it means: b (flat). Example: f' means f#, and 'B means Bb. Because of using minor b problem, I use b' for B(minor)b(flat). That 'B sign means: look on left black key from B, or f' means: look on right black key from F.

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If someone wont to go in that "years" direction, he will deal with next picture. I use this, only for reading and detecting chords on unknown song. But, lot of chords, can be found on internet.

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Simple way for detection of chord is from bass notes. First what I look is that bbb... or ###... number. Than I write 3 major and 3 minor chord. Reading bass notes (lowest if it has two) I detect from that 6 chord. Than I try with playing. If song has lot of changing of chord, I delete some of them, and use only the most common. For memorize purpose I put next picture here. It represent easy way for memorizing. First line (from top) and first space (from bottom) is A. Mirror of that is G (first line from bottom, and first space from top). On 3 line in the middle, we have AB, CD, EF combination. When I detect notes, I see that picture in my mind.

Lot of piano songs, has bbb... keys. Guitar songs has lot of ###... keys. When I detect bbb... chords, I transpose that to ###... key. Easy way is write that 6 keys (bbb...) and add +4 number. It will be very close, but it will become ###... key. If song is in -3 (bbb) it will become +1 (G major key). Just look on two 6 chords, and replace with equivalent from another 6. Keep in mind that this is only approximative method.

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Update 1: OK, I am start to play without transpose (because I learn chords for left hand, and inversions). But when you play songs with chords (on both hand), with some fingering rhythm, it became more interesting. And again, after some time, you want more musical knowledge. I start playing and reading notes with right hand and chord wilt left, and found something interesting inside my algorithm for chords. Some songs has 1, 2, 3... sharps (#), and each sharp is represent replacement of white key for C major song. For example, if song has one # it will be black key replacement for F white key (it will be F#).

I ask myself: "How can I know which black key will be if I have ### sign (3x #)? And I find interesting part... If I look on keyboard, and my numbers, I know that 3 represent song in A major. Lowest (2) chord will be D, and another will be (4) E. Minors chords will be easy to find. Just three count to left from major chords. But where are black keys? And here is answer: Just count one key left from 1,2,3 numbers (because of 3 #). It will be black key before G,D,A. If you play with notes, you will must replace white keys with that black keys. It is one little improvement inside my algorithm. Because my song are always inside # area, I just test this part.

Just another example (for easy understanding): Song has 4 time of sharps (####). For chords, it will have 4 = D major. Another major will be 3 = A and 5 = B. Counting 3 left from that major, we have f# (for A), b (for D), and g# (for B). Counting one keys left for 1,2,3,4, we will have black key before G,D,A,E white keys, and in that song we must play F#, C#, G#, D#. So simple...

Update 2: I found another algorithm for negative part of songs number. Now is the second question. If song is in 'bbb...' part of upper algorithm, which black keys will be? For example, if you have 4 bbbb in song, it must be 4 black keys. For sharp (#) I just found that 1,2,3,4 numbers and white keys, and look black key on left. It is simple. If song has 'bbbb' it will be -2, -3, -4, -5 keys. It is simple. You don't look on left from some key, like before. It is that key, start from -2 (Bb) and going to negative direction. If you have 2 (bb) sign, it will be -2, -3 keys, and so on. Sometimes is better to know which black key is not use (if song has more than 2 'bb' sign). If you know this two algorithm, you can start use melody on right hand. Left hand must be chords (If you learn left/right hand chord playing, now you can use this two inversion for left hand.)

You can try learn playing with melody if you only have a chords. Look on chords, and try to detect 3 main major chords. If you found for example that main chord is A (3 ###), you can easy know that you must play melody on right hand with left keys near 1,2,3 numbers. Just change white keys with that three black keys. When you press left chord, try with right hand find melody. Left chord will tell you (most of time) which one of three pressed keys is in melody part. Melody from your head move around some of that three keys from chords. Now, you know which white keys you must replace with black keys. You must learn where on keyboard is some keys. It is well known FACE word for places between lines. Or you can memorize that F major is first three keys from that word. 'e' minor is first three for lines notes. Yes, it is final step for learning notes. From middle key C to right, you must memorize every notes position (if you wont to read music). For bass notes, you can memorize that middle lines id D note (in the center of two black group). You have two black group of three black keys. One have G note on last bottom line, and another three group of black keys have A on upper line. You can visualize that black keys group for easy memorize left hand notes for chords detection from musical sheet.

Last step for playing the song with chords on left hand, and melody on right hand, will be using some rhythm in left hand fingering. If you know my musical algorithm, and you have melody in your head, you can play close to original. It is nice good sounding approximation. You can practice both direction (from notes to chords, and seeking melody just with song chords). Yes, perfect algorithm can't help you without practice. But it is shortcut, and my way to learn music. My hope is that this new system will be someday well known in music. Problem in web space is that my pages are unknown, like tree in the forest. You can help to share, of course.

Update 3: After some time of using system from update 1 and 2, I found new way for that purpose. It is simple and easy for understanding. You need to look on three black keys. If you need # part of keys, you just look from left to right direction. First key will be f# (one of left black key from three black keys group). Than jump to the two keys group (another left key) if you have two ## on notation. If you have three (###), you need to add another key from 3 keys group (count from left to right). Jumping from group of 3 and 2 keys (from left to right) you can detect which black keys you need for melody. You need just count ##... or bb... from notation. If you don't have notation, and you have main chord from song, you know the main number from my first system and you can have the same information. I have to explain this system if you have bbb... notation. Principle is the same. Just look on right key from 3 keys group (right direction). If you have 2 bb, jump to 2 black keys group, but right one. For 3 (bbb) jump on 3 group (now, it will be middle one), and so on. Maximum of keys is 5 keys, because 2+3=5 black keys. That is it. You can skip my learning way and just learn first numeric system, and this last improvement, and you have good starting point for learning music. On this new way. My way... Share it with musician.

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Main problem of solar collector is efficiency. 5% to 15% are common efficiency for electric conversion. Some expensive new solar cell has 30-50% ( laboratory ), but it is expensive for now. I don't like that for building some source of electricity must have great expensive technology. Standard (heating purpose) solar collector with vacuum tube, has great efficiency, but it is not electric. It is only for heating water. Lot of other system has purpose for improvement of that electric transform from solar light.

I will try with some theoretical new approach, based on one Nikola Tesla's patent: 428,057 'PyroMagneto Electric Generator'. It has purpose for transforming heat from some chemical source to electric energy, based on destroying magnetic field on Curie point.

Principle is easy to understand. Some permanent magnet has on its path some pipes and coil, and magnetic field going through it. If magnetic field is switching of and on (in that tubes path), in coil we have induction. This switching must be fast enough. Because of that, Tesla's patent has that Fe tubes. When heating source come greatest that around 768 C ( 1043 K ) it become no-magnetic. Heat boil water in upper chamber, and convert it to steam. When some field detector with steam valve, detect that destroying magnetic field, it open steam and it pass through pipes and cool down that pipes. Today it could be electronic detection. Tesla has some magneto-mechanical detection. When magnetic point became conducting for magnetic field, that valve/sensor became closed. It must switch of and on in highest possible frequency.

If we build some solar collector on that principle, I would like to see what efficiency would be. I think that heat to electric converter with use of Nickel metal ( Ni ), because of its 354 C Curie point ( 627 K ) will be batter approach. Another interesting material could be CrO2 (used in old magnetic tape for magnetic recording), because its Curie point at 113 C ( 386 K ). I don't know if it is possible make pipes with that material. Maybe some combination of different material? But it will decompose on 375 C, and it could be problem. If we have some parabolic concentrator and that Tesla's PyroMagnetic converter ( closed in some vacuum tube? ), could it be possible make greatest efficiency? Combination of nickel pipes, water steam with standard cooling water system (which cool that steam output), we will have electric converter, and standard water heating system with hot water output.

I think of some different approach than parabolic concentration of solar energy in combination of this idea. I will try later explain one mirror reflecting system which is possible with no-tracing Sun and solar energy come to its center using mirror system to concentrate it. This system could possible reduce standard solar-cell using. It use triangle mirror reflection. It could be made from plastic too. Today we have plastic foil mirrors, and it can be light.

Update thoughts:

After lot of seeking for "room Curie point" alloy, I found this perfect solution. It was so simple, but hidden from my eyes. But now is here, in my understanding, and with combination of Tesla's patents and imagination, it can lead to perfect solution.

Do you remember free energy heat machine with water on low pressure? You now that car has around 30-40% of efficiency, and lot of heat losses. Hybrid car can be good solution, for reduction of losses, with battery and electric motor. But charging motor will have heat losses too.

Monel is alloy of Nickel and Copper (and some other, low part stuff). Currie point is between 25 and 100 C. For Ni (65-70%) and Cu (20-29%) is around 35 C. Try to imagine water steam in closed system, with vacuum and this Tesla's Curie point heat to electric conversion.

How much heat can be convert to electricity for charge battery pack, and going back after electrolytic conversion of water (for standard car), or charging battery pack for hybrid car solution?

Monel is hardest than steel, it is resistant to Oxygen combustion. I have filing, that it is a best solution for that purpose.

It can be useful in solar energy conversion, without photo-electric cells. It is possible create cheap conversion system.

(I will copy this part to Tesla's motor design part, for improvement in heat efficiency.)

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Every two weak I must cut grass around my house. It is around three bag for garbage collection. Than I start thinking about biomass energy...

I build hand machine for create simple briquette.

I start with great cardboard (around 1.5 m x 3 m x 6 mm). Cutting this is very difficult.

Than, I create simple method:

1. Put water in big tank (I use old oil tank).

2. Rotate big cardboard in spiral formation, and put inside water tank (I can put three of them).

3. After 1 day, it is very easy for hand cutting (with gloves). I put it in garbage bag.

4. It can be used for creating briquettes (100% cardboard), or like glue (around 30%) for other biomass waste (sawdust, branches).

Direct cardboard compression (paper didn't break in peaces with drill) make briquttes, which is good enough (but not perfect).

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I use some old machine cylinder (around 10 cm diameter, with 25 cm height), and two circular metallic plates (with holes in middle, and around 2 mm less diameter). I just put that cylinder. It will be best without holes, but I found this two.

It is easy to create a briquettes:

1. Put circular plate, than cylinder, than charge it with wet cardboard.

2. After putting another circular disk, I place wood roller (left hand), and hit with hydraulic press (if height is greater than frame). With left hand I hold top of press (and frame), and with right hand I pump it.

3. When is hard to pumping, it is time to place frame in horizontal position. When frame is in vertical position water going out from bottom place, and when frame is horizontal, it going out from upper part of cylinder, and it can be collected in some pot. Little of water going out from bottom place, and it can be collected with sponge (when frame is down, you can squeeze sponge).

GRASS:

After collecting grass from fild around my house (every two week), I put it in black bag. It stay on Sun around 2 week (it depend about weather condition). I found that grass must not be green. I try make briquette after one week (3 shiny days), and it was not perfect when grass was green. If it change colour, briqette became more compact. Yes, smell is problem here, and I work with gloves in out condition. I think about freezing grass (and destroying cells on molecular level with ice. I didn't try it yet, it is just an idea. I think that grass will became usefull for compression. It will use low energy for freazing, and with around 5 KWh with 1 kg of grass (dry) will be good COP.

It need testing for leaves briquette creation. Maybe is possible to neutralize smell with little sodium bicarbonate.

Testing:

After some testing with combustion of cardboard briquettes, I found that is hard to start fire(with wood is easy). But after starting with wood which create high temperature, cardboard briquette start too. But fire don't exist long like in combustion of woods. Why? My new way for looking to this kind of energy is like I have some tank of coal storage, with molecular network inside. It is like storage tank for hydrogen. With heating of this storage, hydrogen can be released. If it has oxygen around, it will destroy this network tank and release CO (or CO2). Water can improve this CO releasing, because water will disintegrate to O and H on high temperature (around 1000 C). Carbon will catch oxygen from water and release combustible gas: H2 and CO (because of that principle that old coal generation of gas was need water in steam form).

Wood has lot of hydrogen inside this carbon network structure. It has water too (fresh wood has 50% of water). For all that reason wood combustion create lot of fire. Combustion of my cardboard briquettes create little fire. It is like tank which has sponge structure made from carbon without lot of hydrogen inside. Like coal carbon, it will create structure combustion. After high temperature starting and little releasing of fire (fire is gas), it was create red color structure, and combustion was 1-2 hours. If I remove ash from surface, I can see red color like in coal combustion. This kind of combustion don't release lot of fire, but release lot of heat.

I try create grass briquette after two week of grass in bag. It has hard bad smell. It is from NH4 (I think). I must mix this grass with lime (sodium bicarbonate was not useful in low quantity). Destroying smell with lame is maybe the low cost way. It need testing. I was try with standard cement, and it was useful (about 50%). Than I mix grass with 50% of wet cardboard, and this was create useful briquette. I have not lame at home, and it will be next experiment. Of course, some automation machine with hydraulic press will be need because hand creating of briquettes is not easy. I just test principles, and seek for possible solutions. Lame is not combustible, but ash with lame can be useful like fertilizer. Ash from grass is around 4% (wood has less than 1%). It is 4 time more replacing ash than from wood.

Conclusion:

Every biomass has carbon network structure (with ash inside), and it is natural storage for hydrogen. 1 kg is around of 5 kWh of electric energy (in heat form). It can release energy in gas form from this "storage" structure, and structure itself can release hydrogen with combination with water and create CO gas too(dangerous but combustible). This is old technology (from World War II, and before).

This need composting knowledge, for remove that smell. If I understand that, composting technique look on green part of biomass like nitrogen stuff, and brown part of biomass like carbon parts. If composting has air inside, bacterial which generate smell will not be here. Another bacterial will do work on composting without smell. For composting 1 green bag of grass, it will need 3 brown material (like leaves). If grass is dry, it became brown source. I will try with green smelling grass covered with leaves, than another bag of grass, and another layer of leaves, and so on. After few weeks, I will try to make briquettes. This composting system will not need smell remover additive.

It is difficult to dry briquettes. It need some solar drying place. I put briquettes in some mesh bag, and put into the air on the nails. I have raining weather, and low sun condition.

Update notes: I test combustion of grass briquettes and it is not best choice. It is like we mix coal and ashes together: lot of hidden embers (coating with ashes) and little fire. I understand now that if C is high, and H is low, it will not have good fire and it has embers inside (like briquettes made only with paper). Papers has the same properties (lot of ashes and embers). It is better to use grass for manure purpose, or only like glue (if paper is problem, but papers are better) with branches source of combustable parts. Combustion of dry branches is very nice. I tested it with drying on winter Sun (night covering because of frost, because of one week of Sun). I regrind dry branches after that and it is good for briquetting or direct using with mesh-box system (they where too big parts before regrinding, and it make problem with charging of mesh-box). Grass around the plants (for food purpose) is better choice (it stop weeds growing, hold water, protects plant in the night, and change to manure after one season).

PLASTIC:

Plastic which come from oil, can be useful energy source too. Every plastics has some triangle sign with number inside (or PP, PET, PE...). Number 1, 2, 4 and 5 are useful for combustion. Number 6 (PS) is hydrocarbon too, but will need two stage combustion system, and is not good (lot of black smoke, and bad smell). That four number plastics, can be smash in parts, and mixed with some biomass. I try with wood chips and flour (like glue). About 50:50% (plastic:wood chips) with 10-20% of flour with some water. I create ball inside newspaper, which hold it together for drying. I was thinking about starting fire system, but it is not useful (it need big fire to start). Better system for starting fire is using paper, cardboard, board, wood. (in pyramid formation). You can think on that plastics like oil in solid form. Of course, recycling will be best solution, but you must know that you are paying for that plastic energy, and they must pay you back. Don't use another plastics (you must know plastic triangle number). PVC plastic is danger, and high temperature plastic based on fluor, and so on. 12-45 triangle is good information. Melting point of that plastics is around 120 C, or more. When it is in fire, it will became liquid. Because of that it need some biomass mixing. It can create lot of gas for direct electricity generation. Some gasification energy recycling factory just do the same. I just test energy source for some survival situations.

BRANCHES AND LEAVES:

Every tree has leaves, which can be source of energy. Every year this leaves falling down, but accumulate some energy in branches too. If this branches are cut, the tree will not grow to high. This can become solar energy collector tree. With high cutting telescopic lopper in combination with grind-branches machine it will be renewable source. Branches are like natural pellets in grinding form. In combination with paper or composting material like glue, it can become low price briquettes (water and hydraulic press). Tree need some treatment for controlling growing. I see lot of danger and too high tree around. If I own this tree in my place, I can collect this solar energy for free. But work is not free. It need lot of good innovation ideas for useful and cheap collecting in that way with low work. Machine for cutting grass, can be useful for grinding lives too. Just put lives on the ground, and collect it with lawnmower with collecting bag.

How to use branches in grinding form:

This grinding form of branches can be use in that simplest form. You don't need briquetting system for that. You just need some form of mesh-wire box. I build mesh box with diameter of around 10 cm, and around 20 cm of height. It is steel mesh, with mesh on bottom too. I just fill this mash box with grinding form of branches, and put it in combustion fire. Without this mash, it will be dangerous, because combustion without fire can create CO. This mesh-box will have surrounding place for air and fire. I will try to build another mesh box, because of easiest refill (when mesh-box is get out of combustion place, mesh need some cooling for refill). With two of them it is easier to do that. You must have safe cooling place for mesh-box. Upper part of mesh-box is open. Of course, you need something for getting this mesh out, and putting inside fire place. If this are fresh cutting branches (wet), I always put few part of dry material (dry board), before I put this mesh-box. With grinding machine can be found lot of free biomass energy. Good news is that branches are in compress form like pellets. This mesh-box can replace need for motor transport system with some controls. It is hand refilling system, but it work. Tree can be good solar collector and solar accumulator. Cutting branches will control tree growing and give some free biomass energy. Grinding machine will have around 1:100 energy output (that mean that for 1 kWh you can have 100 kWh of energy from brunches). Yes, your work is not free, but it can be good healthy exercise if you have free time and tree around you house.

Update notes 1: Firs grinding of branches with grinding machine with knife system can have too long parts. After drying on Sun (see next, 'Hidden energy' chapter), regrinding of branches will be best choice. Maybe grinding machine with roller system will create better parts. Without drying of branches, it will create mildew around biomass, and it is not good. Drying on Sun with tarpaulin protection is one of good choice. If paper is for glue purpose, it is better to create low water paste (mixed with drilling machine), and than create briquettes with dry branches parts and press system. Yes, I know, real briquetting machine with lignin glue (from cellulose inside wood) will be best choice, but it is not cheap.

Update notes 2: I write on this pages about process for "meat replacement" with wheat flour. Every time when I create "Seitan" proteins with washing wheat, I was waste white water emulsion. I put that emulsion inside one big can. After 1 day (or night) white particles going down, and I remove water with some cup. I try to add in this white/water mix sugar (2 tablespoon of sugar for 1 liters of mix). Few minutes on fire (cooking) with mixing, I create some sticky glue. With gloves on hand and this sticky paste, I am mixing with dry branches. I am create few ball form, and put on Sun drying. Every 1 kg of dry form has around 5 kWh of energy. This is only sticky experiment with waste from Seitan creation. Biomass solar collection is interesting. If I look on wheat, it can be biomass solar collector for proteins production (Seitan), we have stems of plants (it can create pellets or can be in grind form) and that white part can be simple form of glue for homemade briquette creation. This white waste water are energy too. Yes, it need some automation process.

HIDDEN ENERGY:

Every time I try to make some briquettes, I have problem with drying. Natural drying is so long. Without the sun, it is very hard to dry this stuff. When I try to use fresh branches in oven, if I have not mix with dry board, it is hard to start combustion. It always need this dry part (around 10-20%), or filling with fresh green wood, before fire is low (it need fire for drying).

Question is: "How much water is inside the fresh cut green wood (branches). When I cut branches, I grind it with grind-machine. Ok, I make briquettes with water, paper and pressing system, and lot of water going out with press. But this water inside the branches have capillary force for holding water inside. This branches are like lot of capillary pipes in growing direction. Every wood has around 50% of water and more (some not-hard wood has 80% of water). It is lot of parasite water inside. Because of that wood need some drying (natural or not). But, how much energy we need for drying? I found that with 1 Kg of wood (if it is with 50% of water) it is around 0.8 kWh of energy. I write this in electric measure because of create feeling of that energy. It is around 1 kWh for 1 kg of dry part. I don't know how economical it is, but with wet wood particles (branches, leaves and grass), we can make chemical solar collector. Just imagine tarpaulin on ground (or some foil) in the summer, with that biomass particle (like carpet). Sun heat this biomass, and it can accumulate that hidden part of energy because of its drying. For example, 100 kg of biomass can collect around 100 kWh of energy. Problem is my wet briquetting system. For drying it is easiest to dry in low "carpet" condition. After drying, it will be stupid to create briquettes. Ok, with high energy and pricing briquettes machine (lignine system) it will be dry compressing system. Pellets machine is simpler form, but it need some water to create pellets, and some drying process after pellets are create.

It will be smart just collecting biomass, than waiting next summer for creating this biomass solar drying collector. You can find lot of picture for briquettes (water-press creating process). I was always thinking that height of briquettes will better look if it is more height. But all 'internet' guys put some separation part for create low height briquettes. Yes it is easier to dry. I think, it is smart to wait for summer drying. It is lot of hidden energy here. Yes we can think that briquettes are not wet, but inside that capillary tubes we have lot of water. It will combusting (like green wood after cutting) if we waste around 10-20% of combustion energy. And always will have steam and lot of smoke. With 1 ton of material it is 1 MWh of energy.

Because of that hidden water inside wood we waste lot of energy. Hard wood on summer time can collect that solar energy too, but it will be hard to handle, and need of few years of drying. Lot of dry wood has around 20% of water inside. With low height briquettes, it can be easy to create briquettes collector. Of course, it need easy for maintain cover part if summer rain is around.

Don't forget: 1 Kg of biomass can have 4 KWh, or 5 KWh of energy. It is real energy if you dry with electric power. It is solar energy accumulation if you dry with solar. It is wasted energy if you use wet combustion. And don't forget, if it look dry, it has hidden water inside natural biomass pipes. If biomass has 50% less weight after drying (weigh it before and after), you have full charge of your biomass accumulator.

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PAULOWNIA ELONGATA (Tomentosa has seeds invasive problem):

This tree can be natural source of energy tree. It is fast growing tree. It have big leaves, and grow around 3-4 m for one year. When this tree is cut, it can regenerate again and again. This tree come from China. I think that it is nice solar energy collector and biomass accumulator. It has two problem (seeding of Tomentosa can be aggressive and this wood has lot of water inside). But with system with cutting branches every year and with solar drying, this can be good solution. Elongata is not so invasive. For example, cutting branches before seeds can spread (for Tomentosa), than grinding this branches and solar drying in summer time, it can create lot of biomass. Yes briquetting after that will be best solution, but simple use with mesh-box can release energy. With gassification process we can make electricity and heat. It can replace high price solar heat collector and accumulator. Conversion to electricity can charge electric car too. Yes, labor (work) is problem here, but today we have good machine help with that. This can be useful for big solar energy production, but I am interesting in home energy production system. This fast growing tree can be useful for some house building solution. For example, bamboo part for strong part, and this tree for light part of house. This are just survive ideas...

I collect some information from internet source (it need check)...

Tree characteristics:

- Big leaves (can be 60 cm). When tree is big, leaves are not so big. They has lot of N inside (around 2%). Wood has around 0.2% of N.

- It grow around 3-4 m for one year.

- After cut, it start growing again (cutting is not the problem).

- 30 tons of drying biomass for acre (~4047 m2) in one year. For 3 tons of material it will be around 40m x 10m of space.

- 240 kg/m3 dry biomass.

- 188% of water (standard wood has around 50-60%). I just rewrite this information from internet (I don't know what 188% means? Is it weight differences?)

- 60 year of regenerative life.

- Wood is good for furniture, like part of music instruments, surfboard...

- In the start of growing it need lot of water in few weeks, but after that lot of water can be dangerous. It has good roots for finding water. And it need some fertilizer (2 time for first year).

- Tree can be 20-30 m of height. Because of that, every years cutting branches will be good way for controlling this "solar collector". Branches are not strong, and it can be easy to cut. Because of high water part it is not good for wet combustion (I think). After solar drying (it dry fast), maybe it will be problem with high speed combustion. Pelleting or briquetting will avoid that, but it is not simple way (like mesh-box).

- It has beautiful flowers (purple) and nice smell (like jasmine-vanilla) in spring time (4-5 months).

- It is best for cloning from roots parts.

Parts of tree (information is for Termentosa, and it is just approximate):

- 32% trunks

- 21% branches

- 17% roots

- 25% leaves

- 4.3% flowers

- 1.4% fruits (~ 4 cm, like egg with spike)

If you think that Tomentosa is invasive species (you can't control seeds with cutting branches every year) than Paulownia Elongata is for you. I think that Elongata species is the way for energy production... If I can chose, I will chose Elongata.

One house waste lot of energy in manure form. It is not easy to create some useful system for using that kind of energy. It will be more thoughts than work, but for survive conditions, it will be good to know.

I have one (maybe) useful idea. When we use biomass, we have lot of ashes. From ash we can make (do you remember best chemical for electrolytic process?) alkali solution. In combination with fat with heat, soap can be made. But, why I talk about that? Because ashes can neutralize manure smell. Before collecting manure (and paper), I suggest put some ashes in water-manure tank. After some time (maybe day or so), it will be different conditions. After that, we need separate water. With some mesh screen it can be done. After that, more ashes can create cement-like glue. It can be glue for grounding part of branches and others stuff. Maybe it will create good briquettes too. When briquettes are dry it can be wrap in plastic bag. After combustion, ashes will be here, and it can be reuse. I try it (for science purpose) in small quantity, and smell is disappear. With rubber gloves, it will be possible system. One house has lot of energy in manure form...

Wood ashes has a lot of potash (K2CO3) and lime (CaCO3). Both has neutralization properties for acids. Interesting stuff is that combination of manure and ashes can create saltpeter (KNO3) which was main oxygen source for gunpowder. Can it be inside source of oxygen, for better combustion?

Process:

1. Collect cold ashes in some bag (waste bag?). Don't waste ashes...

2. Add ashes in manure-water combination before collecting manure (and wait for chemical neutralization in water, maybe one day?)

3. Remove hard part of manure from water with mesh on stick, and use ashes for more neutralization.

4. Mix and add more ashes to create sticky paste (like clay with water).

5. Mix with biomass parts (branches) and create briquettes.

6. Remove water in summer Sun (dry it on tarpaulin with 1/2 space for screen in rain condition, few stones will be enough for wind condition). If it is night frost conditions, it can be covered in the night and uncovered in the morning.

7. Use plastic bags or plastic foil around dry briquettes (plastic with triangle sign and 1,2,4,5 numbers, are safe for combustion in mix with biomass parts. Don't use other numbers, or if you want to be CO2 neutral. But you must know that your plastic waste will not be CO2 neutral, if you put it in waste.)

Update notes (after some testing):

Manure has lot of energy inside (3 people has 0.5 kg manure per day, and paper is here too. It is around 1 MWh of energy per year + paper energy). This neutralization with ashes, create good glue, but combustion are not to good, after mixing with mixing branches. Maybe my brick was wet (one week on low Sun radiation), but I am not satisfied. Maybe is better to use this neutralization process, for energy manure. If this is only for energy biomass growing, it can be good combination. This need more testing...

If we collect solar energy with Paulownia, or grass... it will need manure input (tree is not just water and air). Human waste with ashes smell neutralization, can be one of manure source. With this combination it will be virtually without smell. Paper will be best glue for briquetting purpose, or mesh-box solution of charging (but it will speed-up combustion). In country where water is problem, some ashes toilet system is possible solution for reduction of disease, and it can create manure for biomass energy system.

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Oats milk can be good milk replacement drink. Main problem is good pressing system (it is hard with hand, but not impossible). This is my recipe (it is so nice for my taste). And it is very cheap.

I update this with "cold" pressing system. If filtering and pressing come before cooking, it will be easy way. It is possible that press become unnecessarily (just strainer, cloth and your hand).

It is good to know that residue of oats flakes are good eggs replacement because of slickness. With new, better way (cold), it need some cooking.

End finally, you can make oats flakes milk with "cold" system, but you can make 50% less (oats:water = 1:5), because oat meals are ready for eating (factory cooked).

STEVIA FOR SUGAR REPLACEMENT:

NOTE: Milk with honey has pleasant taste for me. Taste for Stevia is not so good. It is just my experiment with natural form of Stevia, if I can find something more useful. If you buy Stevia extract, it can be in more pleasant form (they use just good taste sugars from Stevia).

Stevia is perfect for sugar replacement and it is healthy. I will try it with natural form of mixed leaves. Main problem with Stevia is "aftertaste" problem. If Stevia is in concentrated extract form it has only sugar without this problem inside. But it is not "natural" form, and it is "hard chemical" way...

My understanding and investigation of reduction of "aftertaste" problem is this:

1. Pick the leaves before flowering (I buy Stevia in dry leaves form, and can't control this).

2. remove fiber part from lives before mixing in powder with hand rubbing inside metallic strainers.

3. Sugar from Stevia has delay for "be sweet" feeling. Because of that, bitter part can dominate. Adding another form of sugar (in small quantity), can mask this "delay" problem. Salt (NaCl) and lemon (or other acid) has masking properties too.

I use this homemade Stevia for reduction of honey. 50% and more (with more salt) of reduction is without "aftertaste" problem.

Stevia is healthy way for sugar replacement (or just reduction), and I need more experimentation with that. My numbers of that part are just approximation for now.

NOTE: If you add more salt (change from 1/2 to 1 teaspoon for 2 liters of water), taste will be more milky, and Stevia "aftertaste" problem will disappear (if you are lucky). Honey can be very low for better taste with Stevia, and 1 teaspoon of salt.

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I didn't find good way of Stevia extraction with water. My next step will be with alcohol (like all tincture extraction do). Every system that i found on internet, use evaporation of alcohol after extraction, and low level of alcohol-water mix (vodka). I will try with pure medical alcohol, with my choose of water inside. And I will try to collecting evaporated alcohol. Because of different boiling point, I think that it will be easy.

It has two parts:

1. extraction with alcohol (around 2 week with daily shaking) with paper filtering,

2. removing of alcohol with keeping temperature between boiling point of alcohol and water (78-100).

This is just an idea, and after testing I will inform results here.

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Useful tip 1: If you use this bread after more than two days, it is better to freeze and unfreeze. It stay taste like first day.

Useful tip 2: I use only spoon mixing (it need maybe little more water than 1.5 cups).

I change procedure from picture (removing process out of pot with cloth):

1. Oil the pot.

2. Put little oatmeal (it stick to oil film)

3. Put bread mixture into pot (help with spoon).

4. Add some oatmeal to top of mixture.

NOTE 1: Around 1% of population has gluten problem. I will try to create bread without this problem. This bread has long time with yeast, and solution will be in adding of probiotic bacteria. Bacteria will eat gladin (problematic amino acid) and help to solve this problem. When I test it, I will update my recipe.

NOTE 2: After adding probiotic bacteria (1 tablespoon of "acidofil" and 1 tablespoon of "LGG" probiotic), 1 day of preparation of bread has different (better smell), and it improve of yeast growing. Finished bread is so good... My hope is that this bread has less problem with celiac disease.

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Update: After the summer I had a problem with dry yeast. The bread was not raised well. After rising must be roughly twice the volume. I replaced the dry yeast to fresh yeast. It takes a very small amount (2 mm x 2 cm x 2 cm) and about 12 hours of rising. The amount of water is the best with about 2 cups (at 4:2:1:0.5 ratio). But it must be mixed by hand (with one hand in a plastic container, about half a minute of mixing).

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This is homemade meat replacement from cheap wheat flour (white). I found this on YouTube, after lot of not useful attempt (or more complicate). Tesla was vegetarian. Resource for food on Earth are limited. Future generation must found better way. I like this more than soy meat alternative (hard chemical). And it is so taste...

White water can be useful for glue creation. I write this part on 13. theme of my pages, where I try using this glue for briquette creation.

Useful tip: Using strainer inside plastic bowl, is eassy way for water replacement.

NOTE 1: Around 1% of population has gluten problem. I will try to create seitan "meat" without this problem. Possible solution will be in adding of probiotic bacteria in marinade part. Bacteria will eat gladin (problematic amino acid) and help to solve this problem. When I test it, I will update my recipe (like in bread part). This is important...

NOTE 2: I can't found information about China seitan preparation (Buddha monk system). I found only information that they use few week of fermentation, and after that they use salt, and after that few more week with some marinade. It will solve that gluten problem and improve meat-looking part. I need my own testing...

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Ancient civilization from Amazona has technology for food production improvement ( about 800% ). They use around 10% of charcoal mix with land. This carbon nano-structure improve soil and can be solution for carbon storage. When I read about that technology I was thinking that sodium-bicarbonate is best solution for CO2 storage, but now I see this simple option. Heating biomass can release hydrogen for energy use, and create charcoal for that purpose. It can be found on internet lot about "Terra Preta" information. Because of importance, I write this information here, and share this knowledge.

Picture is just graphical view of this solution. Combustion fireplace can be build for using only hydrogen from wood (maybe wood charging patrone with hole?). It need more investigation and thoughts...

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I would like to explain my point of view to possible cancer treatment. Before I start, I will explain treatment for cyanide poisoning. Carbon-nitride molecule in connection with potassium (K) create strong poison. With hydroxo-cobalamin (hydroxo-B12 vitamin) we can catch cyano molecules and create antidote for that poison.

First problem with vitamin B12 is this: only bacteria can create this important molecule with cobalt from food.

Second problem is with B12 substitute in cyano-B12 molecules. This kind of B12 will come after antidote for cyanide poisoning. And become inactive form. If body need real B12, it must be converted to methyl-B12 form, and release cyano molecule [poison if catch potassium (K)].

Third problem is "intrinsic factor" in digestive tract. It is protein (created inside tract) which is vector for transporting of B12 into body system. If we spend this vector real B12 (from digestive tract bacterias or from food) will be less absorbed.

Fourth problem will be with some false B12 form of molecules from some algae or soy. This molecule will spend "intrinsic factor" too, and will not be useful in body. Cheap standard blood test for B12 will count this false molecules, and will not tell us the truth.

Real form of useful B12 is methyl-cobalamin or hydroxo-cobalamin. For easy writing I write like hydroxo-B12, methyl-B12 and cyano-B12. It is important to see differences. Cyano-B12 can create (if body need it) methyl-B12 form after it release cyano molecule (danger). B12 is important for creating of Nervous System and blood cells. But it is important for that cyano protection too.

We must understand that the first line of defense for our body are bacterias in our digestive tract. Our immune system knows that bacterias and they live in symbiosis with us. But "bad" bacterias are here too, and battle are here for space and number of them. I is so important for us to use that probiotic bacterias. Lot of problem become if we have problem with it. Antibiotics can create that kind of problems too. And people use lot of antibiotics in animal food.

Another form of vitamin B is B17 which is danger (only Hunzu people on Tibet are "immune" for this, and it is longest life leaving people on Earth). This molecule has cyano part inside, and when release this part, it can became poison. Why is cyano-B12 useful in vitamins industry, and cyano-B17 forbidden (like cure for cancer) I can't tell you. In nature B17 is part of apricot kernel (Hunza people use it). And here come interesting part...

Cancer cells has molecules Beta-Glucosidase in more than 100 times concentration. This B17 look like sugar molecules for cells and going inside. This B17 will release cyano poison inside cancer with 100 times more concentration unlike in normal cells.

My suggestion for protection for cancer is use active form of B12 (not that danger cyano-B12 alternative). But in cure for cancer with B17 system, I think that antidote with hydroxo-B12 will help normal cells. I am electro-profession and this need expert from that part of science. If you know someone, tell this information (idea) to them. I just write my limited thoughts for that problems.

Some people use starvation for cure to cancer. Maybe possible explanation is that bacterias stay without food, and that "bad" bacterias dies. I suggest that after starving cure, they use probiotic culture and cobalt reach food (beetroot). It is important for that B12 antidote production. I think it is right direction. Possible solution for gluten problem (more than 1% of population) is use that probiotic bacteria before creating of food. I do some experiment with bread and seitan meat replacement, and I will write this in upper part of this page.

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This thoughts come from straw housebuilding ideas and my fascination with strongest and fastest growing grass (bamboo). I asked myself: How to build strong, earthquake resist house, without use of cement?

It need plastic container with wanted dimension (box,...). It can be dimensions of some house wall too (without door and windows). It must be water resist. Inside of this "box", you can put dropped parts of bamboo (yes I know, it need lot of parts, but it will be self-created parts...). But, how to connect this parts together? Just plant bamboo. It will be self growing solar collector. It need some water solution with nutrients. This part is not well know to me, but I see some system for food production on water solution. When growing of bamboo is finished, and it has enough root rhizomes (cement replacement), you have the wall (or building block). It need removing of water solution, and cutting of upper part of bamboo (for next building parts), and drying on the Sun. This is just an idea (of course, it can be modified with some improvement, after some real testing), and I think it look good...

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Next idea is just for future investigation. I try to explain importance for freeze CO2 through some building systems. Idea around paper-crete system is interesting to me. It need sucking mixing paper with water and combination with cement (1:1) building blocks can be created. But paper-crete system use lot of cement. It is good for building purpose. Improvement with this system can be done with styrofoam parts. Paper-crete can be just glue for styrofoam parts. It can reduce weight and paper and cement usage. It can be cheap building system from recicled material. I think about house with old car tires connect together with some screws like circles, and after such connection, fill with styro-paper-crete material. Can earthquake destroy such a house? I think it can't! Every material which is not going to fire and relese CO2 to air, can help future generation of humans. This is purpose of this writing...

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